The quaint coastal hamlet of Staithes near Whitby has a small harbour and is full of character. Traditional fishing cobbles still work out of the harbour, setting crab and lobster pots. The village is full of charm and seems lost in time.
The harbour area is great to explore on foot and is a real jumble of white-washed cottages, arranged in no particular order. There are lots of alleyways and stepped ginnels to explore. There aren’t many house numbers in the village, most just have names, much to the angst of the Post Office. Many of the cottages were originally named after the boats and cobbles which sailed from the village. So you’ll find Rose of England, Blue Jacket House, Star of Hope, Confidence Cottage, and even True Love. As you explore you’re sure to find Dog Loop, one of the narrowest streets in England. The entrance can only be negotiated if you stand sideways.
Staithes sits on either side of a narrow valley that runs down to a small harbour surrounded by high cliffs. Protecting the harbour from the open sea is a large breakwater and protective wall of boulders, From the top of the hill near the entrance to the village, streets of closely packed houses wind down to the harbour. A maze of alleys with names such as Slippery Hill and Gun Gutter separate the streets.
Stay safe while you’re exploring the harbour area. In bad weather, waves break over the piers. Check the tides before going onto the foreshore as the tide can cut you off well before high tide. Also, there is soft mud in the harbour. Please avoid walking under the cliffs or close to the cliff edges as there are frequent cliff falls in this area. Cliff falls come with no warning and being on the receiving end of even a small avalanche can be fatal. Finally, for dog owners, if your dog swims out too far don’t go out after them. Instead, move to a place they can get to safely and call them back.
Staithes is located about 10 miles north of Whitby, just off the A174 to Saltburn. There are two car parks at the top of the village, no parking is available in the lower half of the village. Bear in mind that the walk down to the harbour and the lower village is
quite very steep, especially on the way back! The private car park is cheaper than the Scarborough Council operated one, but its machines only accept cash. There are toilets here and also down at the harbour where there are some shops, a cafe and a pub.
If you visit outside of the holiday season Staithes can seem a bit like a ghost village. Many of the houses are now holiday lets or second homes. Despite this, it still retains a lot of the character of a fishing village.
Back in the mid-1740s about 50 fishing cobbles sailed daily from Staithes, at the time when James Cook was a haberdasher’s apprentice. In the 19th century, fish from Staithes would fill a train with cod, haddock and mackerel. Now only a few cobles still fish regularly.
The village has attracted artists and painters since the nineteenth century. It’s still popular today, with those hoping to capture something of its unique atmosphere. Just like St. Ives on the coast of Cornwall, the clear sea air helps to create a unique light that artists hope to capture on their canvas.
The Cod and Lobster pub has borne the brunt of many severe storms over the years. In 1953 the sea even breached the windows washing bottles of beer out to sea. Many of these washed up on the beach several days later, much to the delight of beachcombers.
In 1744 James Cook was based in Staithes as an apprentice, working for a draper. However, if you find Captain Cook Cottage it has nothing to do with James Cook. The cottage where he worked was washed away, along with 11 other cottages in 1745.
The old Whitby to Middlesborough railway closed in 1958. You can still see the piers of the viaduct that held up the railway over the top of the valley.
The huge rock and clay outcrop, Cowbar Nab, shelters the harbour and is home to a colony of kittiwakes and other seabirds. Walk over the footbridge that crosses Staithes beck and walk back up Cowbar Bank for some excellent views of the village. The harbour framed by the cliffs and the houses bunched behind couldn’t be more photogenic.
The walk down the footpath from the car park at the top of the village also offers lovely views over the rooftops down to the harbour and sea. The best view, in my opinion, is from Mount Pleasant, about halfway down.
Walk from the harbour along Church Street and pick up the Cleveland Way footpath. Once you’ve climbed to the clifftop there are stunning views of the village. This view is definitely the highlight of the walk from Runswick Bay to Staithes. Be careful not to stand too close to the cliff edge.
If you want a different view of Staithes, walk down onto the beach and out onto the eastern harbour wall.
If you are interested in Geology it is possible at low tide, to walk along the shore ledges all the way to Old Nab. See the Southampton University website for more details. Please read the safety notices before exploring this area and definitely wear a hard hat.
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Walks from Staithes
The Cleveland Way footpath passes through Staithes, Saltburn is about 8 miles north on the route. In the other direction, Runswick Bay is about 4 miles south, further south still are Sandsend and Whitby.
If you want a leisurely half days walk with some stunning clifftop views try a circular walk to Old Nab and Port Mulgrave. Leave the village by following the Cleveland Way south to Old Nab and Port Mulgrave. You can return to Staithes via Hinderwell and the small hamlet of Dalehouse.
The four-mile walk goes along the clifftops, down quiet lanes and along paths through fields and woodland. Some of the fields may have grazing livestock.
Walk from Staithes to Port Mulgrave
Start at the car park at the top of the village. Turn right and head down the hill into the old village. At the harbour walk past the Cod and Lobster pub and turn right up Church Street. Once you reach the top of the street, follow the sign onto the Cleveland Way. Turn left at the next Cleveland Way signpost.
As an alternative, you can follow the Cleveland Way / England Coast path which runs closer to the cliff edge. This offers some fabulous views back to Staithes. There are some steep drops here and the clifftop is unguarded so be careful and keep your dog on a lead. Continue along the clifftop path, eventually, it rejoins the other path.
The section of the coast is covered on the Ordnance Survey explorer map OL27, the North York Moors – Eastern area. With this map, you also get a code for use on your iOS or Android smartphone or tablet. The explorer map is available in both the standard paper version and weatherproof ‘Active’ version.
Go through a gate and continue along the road into the hamlet of Port Mulgrave. Ignore the Cleveland Way sign, this now goes to Runswick Bay. Once you reach the telephone box, turn right along a stone track. Once you’ve walked past the last building, turn left at a signpost to cross the fields.
Walk from Port Mulgrave to Staithes via Hinderwell and Dalehouse
The path goes downhill to reach the main A174 road, Cross the road into the lay-by on the opposite side of the road. Be careful crossing, the A174 is busy and traffic is moving fast. Walk along the lay-by and turn left at a Public Footpath sign. Follow the steps down into the wood. Cross the footbridge and take the left-hand path uphill. The path almost turns back on itself and then leaves the woodland.
Continue to walk downhill, past the caravan site and then turn right over the bridge. Continue ahead and bear left along a track. Once this reaches a road, turn right up Dalehouse Bank to reach the main A174 again. Turn right and then cross the road to go down Staithes Lane back into the village. Walk along the pavement to return to the car park.
Whilst I take every care to ensure the accuracy of the route description, I cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The route described may be pleasant for walking in fine weather, but can become slippery, boggy and dangerous in wintry or wet weather. On days when visibility is impaired by fog, rain, cloud or mist, some landmarks used as direction aids in the route descriptions may not be visible.
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